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The switches supported through-hole LEDs which needed to be mounted and soldered in the same way as the resistors. TRRS Cable 4. Further I don’t use most of the keys on standard size boards, and this adds travel time for the rare occassion I do. I may replace the green LEDS with yellow ones to be consistent. Clickly blue switches have a bump and a moving jacket that makes the click. Feel free to email me if you have any questions using [email protected], This site was built using Placing the resistors in the correct spots. This caught 2 dud LEDs and no dead switches however 2 LEDs broke later in the build sometime between soldering and testing the boards. Here is the final result, equipped with Kailh speed silver switches and DSA keycaps. Layout of the components at the start of the build. A build isn’t complete without a key mapping. Next I tested that each of the switches worked as expected, I used a multi-meter to measure the current across them. Then the waiting game begins as you must keep an eye on this to ensure no dirt settles on the sticky surface, and reapply a new coating every 15 minutes or so. They top a great build! Conversely Let’s Split and Helix families of boards were slightly too small and I wouldn’t make full use of my thumbs. This guide can also be used for the Nyquist Rev. Iris PCBs (this item) 2. This was muted to a degree by rubber O-rings under the keycaps, however the sound is still prominent and I’m not convinced I’m a fan just yet. Overall the build was a success with caveats. While this build guide shows parts for the Iris, the build is very similar to that of the Levinson, as well as the Nyquist Rev. Additionally the plates dried outside during one of the hottest summers on record and so the plastic layers cracked several times. translation missing ... [PRE-ORDER] TOFU RGB 60% Hot swap Custom keyboard kit. pic.twitter.com/vUWUVVsQIL. iris keyboard. Tactile clear switches are tactile and have a bump. Good news is that once everything is sorted, I can apply my tenting system to any split keyboard and even regular boards. With all things said and done this project took quite a lot longer than I had planned. I have used several non-standard boards with different mechanical switches including my Vortex (MX Clears), a Roccat Ryos MK Pro (MX Black), a Filco Ninja Majestouch 2 (MX Brown), Apple Magic keyboard (Butterfly switches of doom), a Das model S (MX blues), and others. A build guide for compiling and customizing your firmware is best found in the repo’s readme Luckily the firmware worked as expected too, however there were a few caveats which I cover in the Comments below. Next I tried 99% strength Isopropyl alcohol which was much better at removing bad lacquer, cleaning the copper, and leaving no residue. USB-C Cable 7. The lacquering process took several attempts with noticeable patina on the underside of the plates. With the finishing posts in sight it was only fitting that more problems would come my way. This will help with accessing these symbols as unicode, for which support is increasing. Here's an inventory of what I bought during the build process: pdf. I also ruined a Pyrex bowl when lacquering the plates. Lost in what to do next? Additionally I never installed the LED under glow strip and I’m debating whether the build really needs it. Lacquer the unfinished copper on the switch plate. Next you must apply the lacquer consistently across the plates, making sure the plates are flat so the lacquer doesn’t travel to one side. I spend a lot of time at my desk typing on a fixed board and so I’d like to mitigate the long-term effects of RSI. If I make another keyboard I may build it from the ground up. The build guide on the keeb.io website is a great resource and covers pretty much everything you need to know. As for my lacquering skills there is plenty of room for improvement. This simple test caught a few dud LEDs, and gave me an idea of how bright these diodes were. Buyer's Guide Dads ... AZIO’s gorgeous Iris keyboard is inspired by vintage cameras. Iris build pics. Luckily no switches were broken which is a relief as I only have 2 to spare. Load Iris 2. If I were to work with untreated metals again, I would ensure they are treated professionally before use. You will find builds for arena, joust, and conquest. I went with copper after settling on an industrial (but not quite cyberpunk) look. I settled on a metal plate as this would stabilise the typing surface and the mount onto which the PCB was fixed. It was encouraging to see a graph of my WPM rate steadily return to a normal level. Iris build pics. Left half PCB 2. It is the Iris from keebio. Iris Keyboard Case. This had long lasting effects as I couldn’t restore the copper to a patina-free point. Build Guides. For firmware I went with the Quantum Mechanical Keyboard (QMK) firmware due to its ubiquity, ease of use, and time constraints on this project. This suggests I may prefer I mid-sized board with a higher number of modifiers and layers within range of the home row. If you’re reading this and you know of copper tents like these then please let me know! Another important consideration is how many keys I use on a daily basis. The tutorial isn't exactly for the Levinson, but for the Iris keyboard. There are a number of options for the firmware powering the ErgoDox keyboard, each with their own sets of features and options. *Please note that the Iris 2 keyboard will turn yellow in response to notes you play on your MIDI keyboard. This isn’t a deep clack either, but rather rounded with accentuated highs. Next I had to consider the aesthetics of the board, notably by choosing a switch plate. An alternative was the Helidox design which solved this problem, however I was not keen on the exposed boards on top. Item Contents 1. Before fitting the full set, I quickly assembled the other switch plate to see if it had the same problem, luckily it didn’t. I’ve seen the effects of long term cramping over a career and I aim to avoid the same result. Just solder in your switches and you're done! A Newbie's Guide to NS Iris Online Are you completely new? The modular nature of the build meant it was largely impossible to ensure all components worked together as expected until the last micro-controller was soldered on. It is possible to have worked on the software without caps however the week was up and I was going on holiday :-) This time didn’t account for months of research required and months to deliver the components but I consider that to be a constant factor in most builds of this scale. That is, It doesn’t have arbitrary macros that can invoke arbitrary programs, with arbitrary symbols bound to keys, and an arbitrary number of layers I can switch out as needed. It measures in volume somewhere between the muted thunk of cherry MX clears and the thinner click of MX blues. Jekyll, with the Folio Theme from JekyllThemes.io and is hosted on Github. 3 & 4 of the Iris, which features pre-soldered components. A couple people (literally two, haha) asked to see my Iris build log. Next I tested that the micro-controllers were not dead on arrival and installed the firmware. I've elaborated on and generalized this information to make it easier to use. When fitting the keycaps the USB header snapped off. I also could not run make keebio/iris/rev2:default:avrdude to flash the default key-mappings onto the micro-controllers as this required a two-stage reset and fiddling with the dodgy Caterina bootloader. Standard keyboards force your hands to a small fixed-point of the table when working, and this is not a natural position for your hands. Iris Rev4 Build. The result was barely worth the effort but I have received compliments about the professional quality of the finish, despite the patina on the undersides of the plates. Popular switches at the time included Zealios v2, Holy Pandas, Kailh Box Royals, or variations of Alps. Gifs sourced. Instead I went for the Iris which struck a sweet spot between utility and size as well as having fashionable designs around. Have tonnes of fun! Iris Split Mechanical Keyboard Build A blog about my experience building my first split mechanical keyboard. knowledge of the materials you are working with including metal lacquer. In order to maximise the ergonomic utility of this board I would like to add copper tents (like laser ninja’s) to the board so I can vary the angle of the board; ideally to an arbitrary degree but more realistically at fixed heights by screwing into the M2 fittings. The last main component was the key caps, I chose to go with DSA profile dye-sublimated keycaps from signature plastics. Note: This is an edit of the original middle layer stl from the keeb.io's iris git hub. The working right side with one dead diode, I was able to replace the other one. Keeb offer multiple kinds of PCB but their most recent incarnation, the Rev 3, was the only one in circulation. Iris 2 should then be able to communicate properly with this MIDI device, and you should hear audio playback when playing a file in Iris 2 using your keyboard or MIDI device. It's a sandwich-style case with cutouts to accomodate the USB jack and the TRRS jack. To get a consistent fold, I used the acrylic base as an edge against which to fold the components over. Once all is said and done this build was largely component based. 3/4 Finished Iris Split Mechanical Keyboard build with a brushed copper plate, Zealios v2 67g, Iris Rev2 PCBs, and green LEDs to give a Copper Oxide effect without the rust. In my previous post I decided I would build a new split keyboard, and explored the Iris. I didn’t take comprehensive photos, because tbh I was mainly spending my brainwaves making sure I didn’t screw something up, ha! Deviating from the typical code-centric post, I wanted to share my latest keyboard build. At the end of 2017, Eric of Aeboards asked me for a simple iris case. Here is the final result, equipped with Kailh speed silver switches and DSA keycaps. IRIS is an integrated hardware and software room acoustics measurement system developed by Marshall Day Acoustics. I am largely happy with the result however as there is a beauty in uniqueness of the build and the memories that come with it! This build is specced out as follows: The build guide advises to perform this step after installing the switches. Next I had to prepare the through-hole diodes and resistors to solder to the board. Taking Stock of Anomalies with F# and ML.NET. I had never lacquered anything before, let alone a copper surface that is very sensitive to patina. This seems like a general solution to the fixed-point problem and there are several builds out there that do this well. I ran a small local GB from the australian keyboard discord server in May 2018 which went fairly smoothly. Iris PCBs with on-board controller and USB-C port. The first consideration is the kind of switch and the actuation force required to press them. Welcome to NS Iris! They’re not necessary, but nice to have. I’d like a keyboard that can do this without hindering my flow. 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